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Re: Once again: Realistic BBQ Dish Gain with OriginalDipoleFeed, an

 I think I'm not going to worry about it Fred. I don't want to wake up in a
hotel room somewhere, and have a compelling need to log on the internet,
check the wind direction and strength, reported by my WX station, I have on
APRS at home, and call my wife to  implement a more favorable angle of
'less aero push'  for my  P* dish. When the rotor craps out, (it's over 10
years old ) I will purchase a  newer heavier duty one. And at the same time,
replace the boom with a steel one. I bought my Fiberglas boom when Fiberglas
boom's were fashionable. Now all I get is unfashionable Fiberglas splinters
in my hand's when I work on my antennas. This now out weight's the small
increase in performance.
 Another alternative would be to pack up my antenna system and rent some
time in a wind tunnel.  I could  then try some different attack angle's, mod
the antenna's to make them more aero, map their aero profile's, etc.
Utilizing that data, I could then also tie my antenna system into the
irrigation machines' telemetry, along with my home wx station to implement
some active protection......Ah, I think we're starting to beat this one to
death, along with the BBQ vs BUD thread.
 But seriously Fred , your suggestion about adding some type of mechanical
locking system to lock the antenna system down while I'm not using it is a
good idea.

see you at Dayton , 73 Jeff kb2m

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frederick M. Spinner" <fspinner@hotmail.com>
> Here are some other options.
> #1-- least desirable.  Make sure that during windstorms the dish is
> at 0 deg elevation, and the feed/face of the dish is perpendicular
> to) the direction of the wind.  Can't control this if your not around.
> #2 -- set the dish as high as you can in elevation.  If you can get it to
> degrees, you'll have half the load on it, 60 degrees, half that, etc.
> (ballpark numbers)
> #3 -- assuming you have the setup on a roof or high up, move it to ground
> level.  Trees are an issue here too, but for AO-40 you do not need 360
> degree Az nor 180 El.
> #4 -- Switch to TVRO actuators.  The P* dish is a negligable load for even
> the cheapest TVRO actuators.
> #5 -- build and add brakes to the rotors, with solenoids.  You could point
> the dish to a predetermined AZ and EL when not in use and drop a bolt into
> hole, for example.
> Fred W0FMS

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