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Re: rings in coffee can feed



Greg, I cut the can at the second indentation which resulted in a can
length of just over two inches.  Most coffee cans come with a
polyethylene cover.  Then I strategically cut a hole in the cover to
pass the number eight wire that formed the helix.  This way the sharp edge
of the can was covered and a splash proof covering gotten which also
provided some support for the helix.   A type N connector was soldered to
the bottom of the can.  The first quarter turn was mounted as close to the
bottom of the can as possible (about 2mm spacing.)  Whenever some decent
test equipment can be found, some teflon sheet will be selectively 
slipped in that gap until the return loss is optimized.   Cliff K7RR

On Sun, 3 Jun 2001, Greg D. wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I may be getting a little too pickey, but I noticed that there
> are several choices for "coffee" cans, which are slightly different
> in where and how many indented rings there are.  One has a ring
> right at the 2-inch mark.  Others cans have rings farther down and
> not as deep.  The back (end) of the can is also slightly indented in
> different ways.
> 
> Do any of these make a difference?  Should I cut the can a little
> short and not end on the ring?  Do I need to find a can with a flat
> bottom?  If not, how do I mount the N connector, which I assume needs
> to be flat against the bottom, when the bottom has an indentation
> area right at the radius of the helix?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg  KO6TH
> 
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